Caulk around the crown molding where it meets the ceiling to give it a finished look.Also trending in farmhouse kitchen design: Bristol Antique White cabinets.Fill in all the nail holes with wood putty.For any cabinets with an inside corner, cut the miters with the opposite 45-degree angle so that the miter angles on the crown molding cut into itself.

Repeat this process with the rest of the cabinets with outside corners.

Mount the crown molding to the cabinet using the brad nailer.

Then, make the sister cut for the following side like before.

Make the miter cut for the front piece of crown molding.

Be sure to also mark the direction of the angle for the crown molding like before. Measure and mark the front piece of crown molding.

Nail the two pieces together using the brad nailer and then hold the crown molding back up to the cabinet to get the next measurement.

To make the sister cut on the opposite piece of crown molding, turn the saw to the opposite 45 degree angle and cut it again.

Turn the miter saw to 45 degrees based on the direction of the mark drawn on the crown molding during measuring.

To keep it from slipping, you can use some of the clear polyurethane glue and a couple small pieces of wood to glue on the base of the saw to act as stops. Hold the crown molding upside down and backwards so that it presses up safely against the fence of the miter saw.Draw an arrow on the inside to help determine which angle the miter cut should go. Use a pencil to mark from the inside the correct measurement to cut the crown molding. Be sure the pieces are tight against the wall. Hold up the crown molding on the sides of the cabinet.For the front filler piece, drill from underneath the inside of the cabinet, and then secure that piece with wood screws. From the sides of the cabinet, nail the filler pieces in the place.Mount the filler pieces to the cabinets using super glue to hold it in place and wood glue to more permanently bond it to the cabinet.Once the cuts are all made, spray paint the filler pieces to match the color of the cabinets in case they show through.Make rabbet cuts on the filler pieces so that the piece fits tightly on the top of the cabinet and over the door of the cabinet.Cut strips of the 5/4″ pine to length and width, based on the size of the cabinets.They’re fastened to the cabinet with a combination of superglue gel, wood glue, and pin nails. The side fillers sit inside the cabinet frame, flush with the sides. The fillers above the doors should sit flush with the door faces these fillers are held in place with screws driven through the tops of the cabinets. On cabinets with overlay doors, which have hidden face frames or no frames at all, you’ll have to mount rabbeted filler pieces to the cabinets’ tops to give you something to nail the crown to. The pencil line will show the ceiling contour. Keep the legs aligned vertically as you run the compass point along the line on the ceiling and the pencil along the scribe strip. To make the scribe line, set your compass legs to match the widest gap between the crown and ceiling. Draw tick marks across this joint to help you align the crown after scribing. Trace a pencil line on the ceiling where it meets the scribe strip, then reclamp the crown so it sits flush with bottom edge of the face-frame top rail. If your cabinets have inset doors, open them, place the augmented crown in position on the ceiling, and clamp it to the cabinet’s face frame.

Shaker full overlay cabinets